(Empty ring fingers are so yesterday; these days, singles are more interested in a potential someones vaccination status.). 717 8th St. Follow Tom Sietsema as he dines, drinks and browses at 271 restaurants, bars, and shops while reporting for his America's Best Food Cities project. As before, the smell of smoke from a wood-stoked oven seduces you the moment you step inside the wood-and-brick interior. For better or worse, restaurants are lively again. But you wouldnt want to miss a note in the concert. A: Tom Sietsema Count me a big fan of Tortino on 11th St. NW, where the portions are generous, the pastas are made from scratch, the servers wear ties --- veal saltimbocca with a dash of style. If you hanker for, say, the painters palette of sorbets or world-class ice cream sundae, just ask. VIEW MAP Our Restaurants Grid List Parking Pike & Rose offers three . Sound check: 82 decibels/Extremely. Harding insisted we stay for dessert. The diners lively, art- and plant-stocked dining rooms are bridged by a long stretch of bar, my preferred place to eat and drink when Im not enjoying Deshaiess happy meals at home, that is. Named for one of the French Quarters best-known streets, the restaurant manages the neat trick of evoking one of the best food cities in the country without going the Disney route. Wheelchair users are asked to call ahead so a ramp can be set out at the door; ADA-compliant restroom. Hate the name. Riding shotgun: a tamal of housemade masa wrapped in Swiss chard. Berbere, the Ethiopian spice blend that torches whatever it touches. My vote goes to Daru, whose black-and-glass door commands attention with concentric white rings inspired by Himalayan mandalas and a welcome written in Sanskrit: The guest is god. A recent dinner found us tucking into risotto swollen with what tasted like a forest of porcini mushrooms, lamb ragu humming with red wine and rosemary, and pork tenderloin nearly upstaged by its roast potatoes and creamy borlotti beans. A lot of people have left the industry. Asked to sum up 2021, crucible is the first word out of his mouth. Restaurants of 2017. Indoor and private outdoor seating. Indoor and outdoor seating. 202-742-3570, rosesluxury.com. Takeout, no delivery. 535 posts. Entrees with mass appeal (smoked meat, grilled fish and vegetables) that average $20, sides included? Okra charred on the grill, paired with pickled fennel and eaten with a sumac-seasoned tartar sauce is detailed so passionately by a server, we bite then scrape our plate clean. A ramp leads to the entrance, where a wheelchair user might need help with double doors; ADA-compliant restrooms. A: Tom Sietsema I went to more than 80 restaurants to come up with my list of 40. Say amen to the velvety collard greens (best splashed with hot sauce), mashed potatoes flecked with red bits of peel, and creamy mac and cheese. 136 Paramount Park Dr., Gaithersburg, Md. Rubbas inspired food is served by attentive staff in a small dining room whose pinks and greens radiate joy. They were positioned to adapt quickly to offer takeout at Anju, then, and even have fun with the menu during the pandemic. Entrees $23-$85 (duck jambalaya for two). Takeout and delivery. Our reward was a moist wedge of vanilla-fragrant cake sweetened with blackberry cream cheese frosting. Diners choose a centerpiece (chicken, lamb, goat, wild boar, potato-cauliflower curry), which is positioned on a long wooden board with a changing vegetable, buttery black lentils, baby spinach sauteed with ginger, garlic and cumin seeds, plus a bite of dessert. Its missing in a lot of places these days, but Muchas Gracias is a poster child for inattention. Check out the swordfish kebab, cooked over coals and painted with a sauce made vibrant with green chiles, cilantro, caraway and more. Youre not going to get the usuals here, says the chef. Upgrade to special, and the kitfo comes with collard greens and housemade cottage cheese. by Tim Carman October 15th, 2010. The eating is soft-crisp and chewy. Try it with the citys best collard greens and sweet-sticky plantains, and swoon away. The Indian oasis, 32, looks like a million bucks following a makeover this summer that kept memories of the original club design a dining room carved into zones of privacy, a white piano that gets tickled Thursday through Saturday while offering new art (love the 3-D dancers) and a color scheme that changes with the light (silver on my evening visits). The kitchen, helmed by executive chef Angel Barreto, fresh from being named one of this years best new chefs by Food & Wine magazine, excels at panchan (love the shredded sauteed bellflower root) and seems to come out with a new kimchi every season, the latest fashion being julienne papaya and carrot moistened with Asian pear puree. [Rasika veterans serve memorable Indian-ish food and drink at Daru]. In contrast, Obelisk feels like a poetry reading graced with sublime food. The kitchen treats people who dont eat meat like VIPs. (Anticipate fingers stained red with paprika, chiles and cayenne, too.). The truth is, there are lots to like here: housemade sodas that change with the season (fall finds pumpkin pie and Concord grape), a small dining room decorated with old cooking utensils and Mason jars-turned-lights, and warmth beyond that of the oven. Indoor and outdoor seating. The roomy, unisex restroom thoughtfully includes Braille type near the entry. His lightly pickled wild sardines, served sashimi style, are from Hokkaido, Japan, noted for the freshness of its seafood. Tom Sietsema's fall dining guide Over the years, it morphed several times. Were you to inspect his open kitchen, youd find vegetable scraps being saved for cocktails and lids instead of plastic wrap to cover food. Everyone I take falls in love with the experience. Lunch and dinner daily. Indoor and outdoor seating. A motherly server adds to the outing, revealing that the chicken wings are on the hot side and pork shoulder tacos are enough food for a family. Proof of vaccination or negative test required for indoor seating. Executive chef Kristen Essig comes to Washington from the Big Easy, where she co-owned one of its most beloved restaurants, Coquette. The combination of nine beans mung, kidney, soy and fava, among others warmed with bay leaf, cloves and chiles is fuel you wont forget. Wheelchair users can enter through a side door (off the parking lot on the left); ADA-compliant restroom. Dinner Wednesday through Saturday, brunch weekends. All free with your library card Chewy, foot-long noodles tossed with a vivid pesto of garlicky arugula puree and rough-cut pistachios is as much fun in the eating as the reading: Think fusilli and spaghetti had a baby and somehow bucatini got into the mix, teases the menu. photo by: deb lindsey Try it, youll like it. (Tom Sietsema) *No. The restaurants smart service with a smile feels like old times. Or dense and delicious morsels of lamb rolled in a grass-colored paste of raw green papaya, ginger, mint and red chiles. From bars and taco joints to four star local legends, the FALL DINING GUIDE has a dinner for everyone. But the restaurateurs are doing a four-star job of helping us navigate the pandemic with life rings including pizza and ice cream at Happy Gyro. Owned by Alex Manfredonia, who brings fine dining experience from San Francisco, Vin 909 has the reception down pat. Datta, responsible for the 12-seat bar, counts time at Elle, Columbia Room and the esteemed Rasika West End, where he met Sundas, the former tandoor chef there. Seemingly a bushel of arugula shows up with a hailstorm of pistachios, goat cheese crumbles and juicy blackberries. Dinner Monday through Saturday. For the steamed crabs, Jones buys only live specimens from the Chesapeake Bay, which he plies with a seasoning blend that runs a dozen ingredients long. Like a lot of us, Deshaies says he looks for vegetables when he eats out. It really ought to be in pictures. Same for the generously apportioned food, fussed over by chef Justin Moore. If the kitchen is taking shortcuts, I cant taste them. Consecutive doors at the entrance make it easier for wheelchair users to go in through the patio. Indoor and outdoor seating for dinner; indoor dining not available for breakfast or lunch. The executive chef at Anju in Washington, whos spent half his 32 years in the industry, is no Ted Lasso. Eight courses sound like a lot, but theyre presented so that something light (or lighthearted) might follow something weighty. But I was doing the same thing. What was originally conceived as a watering hole was, because of the pandemic, rethought as more of an Indian-ish dining establishment. 2021 Fall Dining Guide | Tom Sietsema | October 6, 2021 | Washington Post Marinated in garam masala and finished with a brown onion gravy, it's a high-rise of soft red meat paired with mashed potatoes made great and gold with turmeric and mustard seed. Want to light up your dining room table? The tomato sauce a touch sweet, a little tangy comes from an old family recipe; the bacon is made in-house. Entrees $19-$45; prix fixe $79, wine pairing $49. Voila!, for sure. The patio treats customers to a mural abloom with flowers and incorporating local architecture. (read more) Opinionated About Dining April 2017 minibar ranked #15 in Opinionated About Dining's Top 100+ U.S. This Fauquier County gem anticipates whims and delivers the goods. Dinner and lunch daily, brunch Sundays. One of them, Angel Barreto, sees something profound positive even coming out of the mess. Because readers asked, the following reviews offer information on vaccine mandates and accessibility. My current fascinations include crisp spring rolls bursting with shrimp, pork, wood ear mushrooms and taro root a truly filling filling a strapping stew of sweet potato noodles, sour mustard and squiggles of pork, and (new to the lineup) cumin lamb skewers. A staff snack whipped up from leftover oxtails proved so popular, it was redesigned for public consumption. Meals unfold in a dining room dressed with paintings from Addis Ababa and offering live entertainment on Thursday (Ethiopian jazz) and Saturday (traditional music). Takeout and delivery. No barriers to entry at the Rockville branch, which has an ADA-compliant restroom. Tasting menu $75 Tuesday through Thursday, $85 Friday and Saturday. The chef is a discerning shopper. 2021 Fall Dining Guide Tom Sietsema spotlights 48 DC-area restaurants, including his 10 favorites Line cook Sam Hoefer works at the dessert station in the open kitchen at the Dabney in. Indoor and outdoor seating. Im nervous, he says. As before, you should also know Three Blacksmiths still takes reservations about 200 days out and March 2022 is already spoken for. Takeout, no delivery. Indoor and outdoor seating. Owner Mike Friedman says, our goal is to make it feel as normal as possible to eat in his Italian-leaning restaurant in Bloomingdale. At a time when her many of her peers are retired or thinking of it, Law-Yone has become the public face of the ambitious restaurant she co-owns with her daughter, Simone Jacobson, and Eric Wang. For his 14th Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Washington D.C.-area restaurants, reflecting a much-changed dining scene with exciting new flavors. Tom Sietsema/Washington Post - 2021 Fall Dining Guide. The deeper your dive on the menu, though, the more competition the tacos get for your taste buds. Take the gourd fritters, finger-length slices of vegetable sheathed in a batter made with feta cheese. While this popular American restaurant changed hands shortly before the pandemic, new owner Jarrett Walsh and executive chef Nathan Johnson have only enhanced the window-wrapped dining destination in Frederick, Md. Imagine smoky green beans and shishito peppers tossed with buttermilk, chile paste, sesame oil, garlic a rousing kitchen sink of recruits. Im talking banquettes the shade of marinara sauce, Sinatra on the soundtrack, chianti in straw-swaddled bottles and herby hot garlic bread presented with a four-cheese dunk. No takeout or delivery. Rutas roast chicken drew food lovers to his still-missed Palena in Cleveland Park. Pizza! Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, lunch Wednesday through Saturday. Fall Dining Guide Tom Sietsema 2013-10-11 Washington D.C.'s culinary landscape is celebrated in the 14th annual Fall Dining Guide. When we marvel at the staffs efficiency, a host tells us, We have lots of little corners to seat people, including a rear enclosed patio with a two-stool chefs counter that looks into the pizza-making operation. Indoor and outdoor seating. Instagram obsessives like me know what to expect . Dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Looking for a party room? A&J offers its menus in Chinese and English, but fear not: The lists are the same, except for the fuller descriptions on the English version. To eat either entree, delivered by servers who look after you like most honored guests, is to understand whats kept the doors open all these years. Kenya native and self-trained chef Kevin Onyona poured $2 million into transforming a basement dining room (the one-time Vidalia) near the corridors of power into an upscale African statement. Rajoo adjusts the level with a combination of roasted black peppercorns and dried red chiles. Badiee, 33, previously cooked at Gravitas, Cranes and Fiola three different but impressive Washington, D.C., restaurants and in New York at such notable brands as Eleven Madison Park. (Scott Suchman for The Washington Post). Sundas clearly learned a lot at Rasika West End. 1 Talkdoesnotcooktherice Thank you very much for reading Talkdoesnotcooktherice . Long live the queen of this kitchen. Dinner daily, brunch weekends. A five-course dinner is still served just four days a week to no more than 20 people at a single, 7 oclock seating. Entrees $31-$59; chefs tasting menu $150, wine pairing $125. Such beautiful food! Guilty! Novak Djokovics winning streak on the tennis court. It went dark in 2015 for a five-week pop-up in Tokyo, and again a year later for stints in Sydney and Tulum, Mexico . An earlier illness found the self-described mad scientist researching food that would restore his health. The ancient grain salad unites golden couscous and nutty black quinoa beneath a cover of sliced sunchokes and pickled cucumbers, a construction amplified by dressings that veer from hot to sweet to tangy. Ramp leads to bar entrance and an ADA-compliant restroom. Indeed, Johnsons list draws inspiration from around the world. The richest dish of the lot is the slow-cooked lamb, shaped into a soft terrine and grouped with red cabbage, sweetened with agave syrup, and an uber-silky potato puree inspired by the late French chef Jol Robuchon. [Head to Chennai Hoppers for some of the areas best Indian cooking]. Tacos are probably why youre drawn to a table on the sloping front patio, snug dining room hung with Mexican masks or covered back lot. No barriers to entry, although theres a slight incline at the entrance; ADA-compliant restroom. No restaurant fed me more often, or better, throughout the pandemic than French chef David Deshaiess whimsical tribute to American comfort food near the convention center (hence the name). Jos Andrs brings Spanish comfort food including a lot of eggs to Bethesda. Its a kinder, gentler dining experience at Et Voila!, which might find House Speaker Nancy Pelosi (D-Calif.) or Imperfecto chef Enrique Limardo at the next table. Design and development by Clare Ramirez. No takeout or delivery. 2,240 followers. Going into Amy Brandweins warmhearted osteria and market, I always know I can count on seeing a few regulars. Takeout and delivery. Talk about a good neighbor. Among the treasures from the original menu are tandoori salmon and ever-fiery green chili chicken. Major talent has stepped into big shoes at this road-trip-worthy restaurant in Loudoun County, where Vincent Badiee replaced Tarver King last November, following Kings news that he planned to open a place of his own in the area. While the siblings have in common hospitality and great things in glasses, Revelers Hour is the more relaxed of the two, a model pasta and wine bar in a room thats dark as a movie theater but illuminated with candles and surrounded by wine. Indoor seating only. Best Restaurants 2021: Sfoglina In Arlington, find one of the best slices of cake you've ever eaten. The appeal extends to the liquids and the hospitality: The $10 cocktails are improvements on throwbacks, and a spot on your shirt (hello, tomato sauce!) Stick around for Rochelle Coopers desserts, a favorite of which is her ritzy twist on smores, its honeyed meringue teased into little flames.. Ashok Bajaj is giving diners fresh reason to visit the oldest in his stable of 10 restaurants. Dinner Wednesday through Monday. Read more Tom Sietsema's 2021 fall dining guide Our. When hes not minding his ever-expanding culinary empire, Andrs is saving the world. We hope people feel that love. We do, we do! Crafted from rum, curdled and clarified kefir and a puree of cilantro and mint, its the color of life green and inspired by mint chutney. The one that calls loudest is kwati, a soup prized by the Nepalese as much for its health benefits as its heartiness. New Orleans is summoned in the long-grain Louisiana rice that shores up the fish amandine and in the crackle from the Leidenheimer bread thats shipped in for the beefy po boy. A lot of guests have opinions about vegetables, based on unpleasant experiences with say, canned mushrooms or overcooked asparagus, says Rubba. The tip of the iceberg finds chicken smoked over tea leaves, cigar-length pork potstickers, crisp cabbage ignited with Sichuan peppercorns, and nugget-size steamed spareribs, coated in soft rice crumbs seasoned with five-spice powder. That said, kudos to a sommelier who, without prompting, steers diners to liquid treasures that are well south of three digits. The meat, carved into two chunks, rests on a whip of turnips and alongside carrot coins ignited with harissa. Duck confit slipped into triangular pasta, fried to a light crisp and served on a spoonful of fontina sauce merits a return engagement. The fire in the red lentils? Dinner commences with a flurry of snacks a bite of pork rillettes paired with fig and black garlic, a furl of smoked salmon on a dab of yogurt and pickled herbs before moving on to dishes that ask diners to eat outside the box. Of vaccination or negative test required for indoor seating wood-and-brick interior vaccination or negative test for... 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